New Routes – Waterworld

Waterworld, Gangplank – Captain Hook

For all routes not shown on this page, refer to the guide book “Revelstoke Rocks”.

CH CAPTAIN HOOK ***

5.11a # 18 SPORT 3+1 pitches
Established and FFA, Ruedi Beglinger and Cam Molder,September 13 / 18 2016

Approach: Waterworld, Gangplank, see Revelstoke Rocks guidebook, page 102 / 103

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.10a 20m): From the platform (at the base of Baywatch) traverse level to the climber’s right (south). This brings you around a prominent arête and in to a deep corner with the belay.
Pitch 2 (5.11a 33m): This is a consistently very steep pitch. From the belay follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the climber’s right. Climb steep corners and roofs, to the belay. Lots of technical moves with incredible exposure, directly above the deep blue of Lake Revelstoke.
Pitch 3 (5.11a 25m): From the belay climb diagonally up to the climber’s right, past a roof and into a right facing corner. Once above this steep corner, follow easier terrain diagonally up to the left. This brings you to the prominent ledge with the fir tree.
Pitch 4 (5.7 40m): Climb a prominent slab with bolts to the above ledge. From this ledge make a tricky steep step (5.7) on side pulls and after, follow the most right arête (5.6) to the final belay.

Comment:
This route has been established from ground up. Still, it is difficult to bail on this route, unless you are prepared to leave draws behind (or you plan on swimming). Pitch 2 is 33 meters high and leans out approximately 8 meters. Fun route, you like it. One 70 meter rope is recommended.

Waterworld, Gangplank – Sea Monster

SM SEA MONSTER ****

5.11b # 18 SPORT 3+1 pitches
Established and FFA, Ruedi Beglinger and Cam Molder, September 14 / 18 2016

Approach: Waterworld, Gangplank, see Revelstoke Rocks guidebook, page 102 / 103

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.10a 20m): From the platform (at the base of Baywatch) traverse level to the climber’s right (south). This brings you around a prominent arête and in to a deep corner with the belay.
Pitch 2 (5.11b 33m): This is a consistently very steep pitch. From the belay follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the climber’s left. Climb steep corners and roofs, to the belay. Lots of fun finger locks crack jams and side pulls with plenty of air between you and the deep water below.
Pitch 3 (5.10a 25m): From the belay climb diagonally up to the climber’s left, into a deep corner. Once above this steep corner, follow easier terrain diagonally up to the left. This brings you to the prominent ledge with the Fir tree.
Pitch 4 (5.7 40m): Climb a prominent slab with bolts to the above ledge. From this ledge make a tricky steep step (5.7) on side pulls and after, follow the most right arête (5.6) to the final belay.

Waterworld, Voyage Wall

DCW Don’t Change My World ****

5.10d # 15 + SS 2 SPORT 5 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, June 14 – 18 2020
FFA: Florina Beglinger, Ruedi Beglinger, June 19, 2020

Located: Voyage Wall, Waterworld

Approach: As for Voyage Wall, see Revelstoke Rocks guidebook, page 90. Rappel 4 pitches to the base platform on Voyage Wall (check guidebook page 91).
You can also approach this route from Gilligan’s Island.

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.8b 30m): From the Platform at the base of Voyage Wall traverse in the direction south, along the first pitch of “Walk the Plank”.
You can also start this route at Gilligan’s Island. (5.9 (50m): Start at the base of Mutiny and The Bounty, on lower ledge north of the ladder. Follow the “Via Ferrata” cable that leads to the routes Daff, Professor and SS Minnow. Traverse to the far end of the cable. From there, keep traversing level, past a prominent boulder to the base anchor of SS Minnow. This is the third route on this traverse. From there downclimb a corner to the below traverse route “Walk The Blank”. Use long shoulder size slings for the anchor of SS Minnow and the first bolt below the corner. Now traverse in the direction north (5.9), to the next anchor (Don’t Change My World).
Pitch 2 (5.10c 35m): Climb straight up, past a small roof to the above wall (5.10c). Keep climbing straight up this fun wall and the above corner systems. The second corner system has a tricky slab with a roof. Climb this exposed slab diagonally up to the right, on crimpers (5.10c), that will lead you into the final corner.
Pitch 3 (5.10c/d 30 m): At the right side of the roof above the belay climb onto a large block with a wide crack. From there traverse exposed to the left (5.10c/d) and eventually aim straight up. This brings you to a roof. Climb this roof and after, trend exposed to the left. A final tricky bulge (5.10c) will bring you to the belay at a large ledge.
Pitch 4 (5.10c 30 m): From the belay climb straight up (caution the rocks in this short section are not very solid, 5.7). This brings you into a prominent right facing corner. Climb this stellar corner (5.10b) to its upper end. There trend left and eventually pull a small roof (5.10c) to the belay at a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 5 (5.10c 30 m): Traverse and climb diagonally up to the left (5.6). Eventually traverse below a prominent roof. At the climber’s left of this small roof make a tricky few moves up to reach the above slab (5.10c). Now climb a few more steps diagonally up to the climber’s left, past the left side of a prominent boulder and further to the belay (2 bolts on a large boulder).

Waterworld, Voyage Wall – Gilligan’s Island

WB Walk The Plank ***

5.9 # 14 + SS 1 SPORT 6 p
Established / FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, Florina Beglinger, Eric Dafoe, October 18, 2019 / June 2020
Comment: The best adventure climb in Revelstoke

Located: Voyage Wall and Gilligan’s Island, Waterworld

Approach: As for Voyage Wall, see Revelstoke Rocks guidebook, page 90. Rappel 4 pitches to the base platform on Voyage Wall (check guidebook page 91).

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.8 30m): From the Platform at the base of the Voyage Wall, traverse along the water of Lake Revelstoke towards south. After approximately 15 metres traversing, past a right facing corner, do not climb up a prominent slab “Walk of Life”. Instead, keep traversing towards south, past a short base buttress (5.8), to a ledge with a roof above and the belay.
Pitch 2 (5.9 32m): Keep traversing along the water. After a few metres along an easy ledge the traverse gets steeper, this is the crux of “Walk The Plank”. Keep traversing across a deep left facing corner and around a buttress. A few more metres of steep traversing (5.8) will bring you to the next belay.
Pitch 3 (5.6 25m): From the belay climb diagonally up to the right (5.6), onto the above narrow ledge with the Via Ferrata cable. Follow the Via Ferrata cable towards south, this will bring you to the next belay at a large Fir tree.
Pitch 4 (ladder, ledge 15m): From the belay step down into a deep gully and afterwards climb the ladder to the above wide ledge on Gilligan’s Island. If you don’t have too much rope drag, then you might want to link pitch 3 and 4.
Pitch 5 (The Boulevard, 5.9 32m): Climb the prominent right facing dihedral (5.8) past a steep buttress to a sloping ledge above. There is a belay to the climber’s left, skip this belay. Instead keep climbing up a short left facing corner (5.9) to the above ledge, with the belay.
Pitch 6 (The Boulevard, 5.8 30m): Step to the climber’s left and climb straight up the left-hand buttress (5.6) of a right facing corner. At the steep step above you will find a belay to the right, skip this belay. Instead keep climbing straight up (5.8) to the upper rim of Gilligan’s Island. The final steep wall (5.8), climb it at the right-hand side where the bolts are, more fun than scrambling up the left-hand corner.

Waterworld, Gilligan’s Island – Daff

D Daff ***

5.11b # 18 SPORT 3 p
Established, Eric Dafoe and Cam Molder, 2018/19
This route was established in memory of Brian Dafoe.

Located: Far northern end on Gilligan’s Island, Waterworld

Approach: As for Gilligan’s Island, see Revelstoke Rocks guide book, page 90. From the Base Ledge at Gilligan’s Island, climb down the ladder to the large Fir tree. From there follow the “Via Ferrata” cable in the direction North, move exposed past a deep corner to the first belay. For the “Via Ferrata” traverse, belay from a bolt at the Fir tree.

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.11b 33m): Climb straight up past two roofs. After, aim slightly to the climber’s right and shortly after, keep climbing straight up past bulges, to the belay.
Pitch 2 (5.10d 25m): Keep climbing straight up, past an exposed corner and a steep wall with a flake. Pull the roof to the above ledge. Belay to the right.
Pitch 3 (5.8 20m): Traverse level to the climber’s right, to the upper end of The Boulevard. There, climb straight up to the final belay, at the upper rim of the wall.

Waterworld, Gilligan’s Island – Professor

PR Professor ***

5.10c # 14 SPORT 3 p
Established: FFA: Brian Dafoe and Cam Molder, spring 2018

Located: Far northern end on Gilligan’s Island, Waterworld

Approach: As for Gilligan’s Island, see Revelstoke Rocks guide book, page 90. From the Base Ledge at Gilligan’s Island, climb down the ladder to the large Fir tree. From there follow the “Via Ferrata” cable in the direction north, move exposed past a deep corner to the second belay. For the “Via Ferrata” traverse, belay from a bolt at the Fir tree.

Route: Pitch 1 (5.10c 27m): Climb straight up a steep wall to easier terrain above. Continue diagonally up to the left, to below a long roof. Just right of a corner, climb straight up this roof. Belay above the roof, in a corner.
Pitch 2 (5.10b 27m): Keep climbing straight up a corner. After, aim slightly right, towards a deeper corner above. There, step exposed to the climber’s right and move up a short wall to the above corner-ramp. Now climb straight up a steep wall with tricky side pulls. A final few meters up a steeper wall will bring you to a prominent ledge with the belay.
Pitch 3 (5.10b 35m): At the belay, step to the right and climb an exposed wall to the above arête. At the upper end of that short arête, traverse to the climber’s left, to the final rock buttress. Climb this fun buttress to the large Fir tree above. From there, walk 8 meters to the climber’s right, to the belay at a rock, two bolts.

Waterworld, Gilligan’s Island – SS Minnow

SM SS Minnow ***

5.11a # 14 SPORT 3 p
Established: Cam Molder, 2018/19
FFA: Eric Dafoe and Cam Molder , May 20, 2019

Located: Far northern end on Gilligan’s Island, Waterworld

Approach: As for Gilligan’s Island, see Revelstoke Rocks guide book, page 90. From the Base Ledge at Gilligan’s Island, climb down the ladder to the large Fir tree. From there follow the “Via Ferrata” cable in the direction North, move exposed past a deep corner to the third belay. For the “Via Ferrata” traverse, belay from a bolt at the Fir tree.

Route: Pitch 1 (5.11a 30m): Follow a leaning corner, up to the left, to where the wall steepens. There, move slightly right and eventually move straight up to a small but long roof. A few tricky moves to the left and after climb straight up to the belay.
Pitch 2 (5.10c 27m): After a few meters straight up, aim diagonally up to the climber’s right. Eventually you will end up in a corner system. Near the upper end of this corner system, where it steepens, climb a steep wall to the right, past a tricky and exposed step (5.10c boulder move). This brings you onto an exposed and sloping table. Now climb a few meters straight up a steep wall, to a long arête. Follow this arête to the belay. Same second belay as for Professor.
Pitch 3 (5.10b 35m): At the belay, step to the right and climb an exposed wall to the above arête. At the upper end of that short arête, traverse to the climber’s left, to the final rock buttress. Climb this fun buttress to the large Fir tree above. From there, walk 8 meters to the climber’s right, to the belay at a rock, two bolts.