Revelstoke Rock Climbing

Victor Lake Wall

"the grand wall of Revelstoke"

The Victor Lake Wall, is the steep 365 vertical meter south facing wall, directly above Victor Lake, 15 km west of Revelstoke B.C. Whenever I call the Victor Lake Wall “The Grand Wall of Revelstoke”, this is not because I wish I would be climbing in Squamish. Starting out in the deep forest, starting out climbing some slabs and easier corners and soon after finding my self in the steep main part of the wall, vertical to overhanging, exposed and sporty, climbing the most amazing rock high above the Trans Canada highway …. this is it, reminding me of the Grand Wall. Of course every wall has its own characteristics and great charm and should never be compared with any other wall. With a total of 11 different routes, the Victor Lake Wall dose get every year increasingly more attention amongst climbers from across Canada.

The Victor Lake Wall has a long history, for many years several local climbers have talked about establishing climbing routes on this superb and steep wall that dominates the highway corridor west of Revelstoke. Unfortunately personal time and commitment was missing and it was not until Dean Flick from Revelstoke started to build the first route on the wall “The Mission”. It took him nearly 10 years to finish this route. During that time period Dean had endless other plans on the go, establishing many other new routes in the Revelstoke area and climbing with friends. Whenever he was working on his route at the Victor Lake Wall he was keen and driven to succeed with this project. In 2007 this grand route reached its completion. In the meantime Graham Baldwin put up a three-pitch variation to the start of “The Mission”. Considering that Graham was all hand-bolting these three pitches, in super hard quartzite rock, he definitely had his own mission on the go.

During the long mission of establishing “The Mission”, Dean once told me that the Victor Lake Wall is the real thing and will some day become the signature of Revelstoke rock climbing. He was right, only a few years later, with a total of 9 different routes leading up this superb wall, the Victor Lake Wall is rapidly gaining great interest amongst climbers from across Canada. With the completion of the route “Mystery”, likely among the hardest multi pitch sport routes in BC, this wall reached a class of its own.

It is possible to climb already in early May at the Victor Lake Wall; mostly Grande Finale, Last Spike, Ninth Symphony and Mystery. The lower slabs at Return of the Osprey, Trans Canada and Pan-America are usually still wet from the melting water until mid June. In the fall it is regularly possible to climb until late October and during some years even into early November. This wall faces south and is high enough to warm up during sunny days well into fall. Often when the temperatureas are +5 to +8 degree Celcius in Revelstoke and it is too cold to climb at Begbie and other cragging areas in the valley, the Victor Lake Wall truly comes alive. With direct radiation, warm rising temperatures this high wall creates its own micro-climate (as does the south facing Columbia Buttress). Early spring and late fall are special climbing times at Victor Lake Wall, knowing that everybody else in Revelstoke is sitting in the thick fall fog and wearing warm clothing to keep from getting cold.

How to get to Victor Lake Wall

How to get there

Victor Lake Wall

Coming from Revelstoke:
Drive along the Trans Canada highway (Hwy1) towards west (Vancouver). Once you crossed the Columbia River Bridge and reached the turnoff for Hwy 23 S (traffic light), start counting the kilometers as you keep driving west along Hwy 1. At km 13.1 you come to a turn-off into a gravel road (driver’s right-hand side), at the east end of the Victor Lake (second lake west of Revelstoke. Follow the gravel road for 150 meters, to the parking area, located directly at the approach and descent trail.

Coming from Vernon, Kamloops or Sicamous:
Drive along the Trans Canada Highway (Hwy 1) towards east (Calgary). Once you are past the prominent red hotel at Three Valley Gap, keep driving towards east for another few kilometers. This will bring you across a bridge and further to the Victor Lake (third lake east of Sicamous). At the east-end of the lake is a turn-off to the left, into a gravel road. Follow the gravel road for 150 meters, to the parking area, located directly at the approach and descent trail. “Caution, if traffic volumes are high”, continue driving east for another 400 meters, past a bridge. There is a large pull-out where it is safe to turn around and drive back to the gravel road branch-off.

Approach

From the parking area at the gravel road, walk up the steep trail to the base of the Victor Lake Wall. For the routes “Return of the Osprey”, “Trans Canada” and “Pan America” branch off to the right shortly prior the actual wall (sign). For all other routes keep following the main trail aiming straight up and slightly climber left. 15 to 20 minutes from the highway.

Descent for all Victor Lake Wall Routes

From the top of the Victor Lake Wall walk down the marked trail towards west and eventually in south direction. This brings you with a 35 minutes walk back to your car at the gravel road parking area. Just as on the Squamish Grand Wall or any route on Yamnuska, bring a super light pack and light approach shoes, climb one of the many grand routes and after the climb enjoy the quick walk down back to the car .

The Goat Ledge

The Goat Ledge is the prominent large ledge separating the entire upper wall from the lower wall. The Victor Ledge allows climbers to bail from any route as you walk towards west, along this large ledge to the Ninth Symphony / The Mission. After you arrive at the fourth belay anchor of The Mission, rappel straight down the lower part of the Ninth Symphony and the Baldwin Start. (35m, 30m, 28m, 28m). In between Return of the Osprey and Restless Spirits is a fix rope.

How to get to Victor Lake Wall
1. Grande Finale ****   "Steep climbing and amazing exposure, interesting crux pitch" 5.12c (5.11b A0) MIXED 12p
Established / First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger and Alex Geary, Sep. Oct. 2013 (5.12a A0)
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, October 21, 2013
Gear: BD Camalots 0.3 to 1, 18 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (The Mission): Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: (The Mission): Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m. Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: (The Mission): Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay, 28 m.

Pitch 4: Climb a few more meters straight up, then walk level and slightly up to the belay, located at the bottom of a prominent slab, 30 m. Pitch 3 and 4 can be done in one long pitch (70 meters).

Pitch 5) At the “base slab” do not follow the bolts leading straight up. Instead climb diagonally up to the left. After, climb a steeper wall (5.5) to a ledge above. There, do not climb the bolts straight up, instead traverse 4 meters to the left, to the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 6) Traverse for a few meters exposed to the left and after climb tricky straight up (bolts, 5.11b) the steep buttress, to the narrow ledge above with the belay, 25 m.

Pitch 7) Traverse for a few steps to the left and after climb straight up a steep wall (bolts, 5.10d) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 8) Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts), to below a roof. There traverse a few meters to the right (bolt) and after climb straight up past the roof and a steep slab (bolts, 5.10a) to a ledge above. There aim diagonally up to the right to a chimney. Climb this chimney (5.4) to the ledge above with the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 9) Climb straight up a steep slab (bolts, 5.10c) to the fourth bolt. There traverse for several meters to the right, to a cut-off tree. From this cut-off tree instead keep traversing to the right (Gripped Poetry) climb straight up a clean slab to a second cut-off tree and finally walk diagonally up to the left across a large ledge to the base of the final wall, anchor, 50 m. (If you have to bail: Half way up pitch 9, from the first cut-off tree keep traversing to the right and climb the final three pitches of The Last Spike. 5.9 to 5.10c, you should have enough gear for this alternative finish).

Pitch 10) Climb diagonally up to the left up a steep roof (bolts, 5.10d) to a slab above. From there climb straight up to a small ledge. Keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.12c or 5.11b 3 bolts A0) to the exposed belay (all bolts), 35 m. Lots of great exposure.

Pitch 11) Climb diagonally up to the left into a narrow corner (bolt, 5.11a). Follow this corner to below the large roof above. From there, aim diagonally up to the far left corner of the roof (bolts). Now climb straight up the final wall (bolts, 5.10c) to the top anchor of the route, 35 m. Enjoy the grand vista.


2. Vertical Poetry ****
"This is the easiest route on the wall, offers ongoing superb climbing in solid rock,
is well protected and has great exposures. A must to do."
5.10b MIXED 12p
First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder, September 15, 2014
Gear: BD Camalots 0.3 to 2, 18 draws, 6 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Mission) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: (Mission) Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: (Mission) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay, 28 m.

Pitch 4: Climb a few more meters straight up, then walk level and slightly up to the belay, located at the bottom of a prominent slab, 30 m.

Pitch 3 and 4 can be done in one long pitch (70 meters).

Pitch 5: At the “base slab” do not follow the bolts leading straight up. Instead climb diagonally up to the left. After, climb a steeper wall to a ledge above. There, do not traverse to the left to the belay (Grande Finale). Instead keep climbing straight up into a prominent corner system (5.10b). Follow this corner system to the belay at a ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 6: Traverse level to the left (bolts, 5.6) to the next belay, 20 m.

Pitch 7: Traverse for a few steps to the left and after climb straight up a steep wall (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 8: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts) to below a roof. There traverse a few meters to the right (gear) and after climb straight up past the roof and a steep slab (bolts, 5.10a) to a ledge above. There aim diagonally up to the right to a chimney. Climb this chimney (gear, 5.5) to the ledge above with the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 9: Climb straight up a steep slab (bolts, 5.10b) to below a small roof. There traverse for several meters to the right, to a cut-off tree. Now climb straight up (bolts, 5.4) to the above large ledge. Cross this ledge to the following wall. Of the two belays, go to the right-hand belay, located 7 meters to the right of a small cave, 40 m.

Pitch 10: Climb a short but steep wall (bolts, 5.10a) to the above large ledge. From there scramble diagonally up to the right, to a deep corner. Climb this corner (5.10a) to the above ledge. Now follow this ledge to the right, to the next deep corner with a roof above. Climb this corner and roof (5.10a) to the above exposed ledge. Follow this exposed ledge (bolts, 5.7) to the right, to the belay, 35 m. Cautions, potential for rope-drag, use lots of long slings in the corners and ledges.

Pitch 11: Keep traversing to the right (bolts 5.4), to a cut-off tree. There climb a few meters straight up to below a roof. Now enter a long traverse to the left. Eventually climb straight up to the belay (bolts, 5.6), 35 m.

Pitch 12: Traverse a few more meters to the left and after climb straight up to a roof. Pull this roof at the right side (bolts, 5.9) and after climb diagonally up to the right, to the top of the route, 30 m.


Victor Lake Wall climbing routes
3. Satisfaction *** "Consistent in its grade, great exposure" 5.10c MIXED 12p
Established/First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger and Cam Molder, Oct. 2015
Gear: BD Camalots 0.3 to 2, 14 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Mission) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: (Mission) Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: (Mission) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay, 28 m.

Pitch 4: Climb a few more meters straight up, then walk level and slightly up to the belay, located at the bottom of a prominent slab, 30 m.

Pitch 3 and 4 can be done in one long pitch (70 meters).

Pitch 5: Do now follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the left (Grande Finale and Vertical Poetry). Instead follow the bolts leading straight up (5.10c). After the “starter slab” climb a steep wall and the above corner system to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 6: Keep climbing straight up (5.10c), following many bolts, to the next belay in the prominent deep right facing corner, 35 m.

Pitch 7: Climb the prominent lower corner (5.10b) to the next belay at a ledge, 30 m.

Pitch 8: Traverse for a few meters steep to the left, further climb an overhang that is leading into the above corner system (5.10b). Climb this corner system to the above ledge with the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 9: Climb an easy slab, diagonally up to the right (5.5), to the next belay, 25 m. This is where Satisfaction merges with The Last Spike.

Pitch 10: Climb a short wall (bolts, 5.8) to the above large ledge. From there scramble up easy terrain to a prominent corner with a short wall. Climb this wall (bolts 5.10c) to the above sloping ledge. Now move diagonally up to the right, up easy slabs (bolts, 5.6) to the far right-hand arête. 35 m.

Pitch 11: Climb straight up a steep broken buttress to the above large ledge (bolts, 5.8). There move a few steps diagonally up to the right and after climb straight up a wall with horizontal in-cuts (bolts, 5.9) to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 12: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), to the prominent steep arête. Step around this arête and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to its upper end with the belay, 25 m. (The first ascend climbed the arête completely on the left side, 5.11c).


4. The Intruder ****
"Sustained steep climbing and amazing exposure"
5.11c SPORT 11 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger and Eric Dafoe, October 14, 2015.
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger, October 2015.
Gear: 20 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Mission) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: (Mission) Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: (Mission) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 4: Climb a few more meters straight up, then walk level and slightly up towards the base slabs at Vertical Poetry. 15 meters prior these slabs walk straight up to the belay at a small rock outcrop.

Pitch 3 and 4 can be done in one long pitch (70 meters).

Pitch 5: Climb straight up to a small ledge. From there climb a steep wall (5.11b), following the many bolts to the next belay, 40 m.

Pitch 6: Traverse a few steps to the left, after climb straight up past a roof (5.11b), to the next belay at a ledge, 40 m.

Pitch 7: Climbing straight up a steep corner (5.11c) to the above ledge and roof, belay 25 m. .

Pitch 8: Traverse to the right. Eventually climb diagonally up to the right (5.10b), to the above ledge. Keep climbing straight up to the next belay, 28 m. This pitch is all bolted.

Pitch 9: Climb a short wall (bolts, 5.8) to the above large ledge. From there scramble up easy terrain to a prominent corner with a short wall. Climb this wall (bolts 5.10c) to the above sloping ledge. Now move diagonally up to the right, up easy slabs (bolts, 5.6) to the far right-hand arête. 35 m.

Pitch 10: Climb straight up a steep broken buttress to the above large ledge (bolts, 5.8). There move a few steps diagonally up to the right and after climb straight up a wall with horizontal in-cuts (bolts, 5.9) to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 11: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), to the prominent steep arête. Step around this arête and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to its upper end with the belay, 25 m. (The first ascend climbed the arête completely on the left side, 5.11c).


5. Last Spike ****   Amongst Canada's greatest multi pitch sport routes! A great route to climb, even if you might have to pull on some bolts…! 5.10d MIXED 10p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder and Eric Dafoe, September 2012
First Ascent: Two rope parties, Ruedi Beglinger / Cam Molder and Eric Dafoe / Manuela Arnold, September 30 2012
Gear: BD Camalots 0.2 to 1, 15 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Mission) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: (Mission) Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: (Mission) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to a belay). Skip this belay and climb diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with a prominent chain belay, 32 m.

Pitch 4: Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner traverse for 25 meters diagonally up to the left or in wets direction (bolt), across easier terrain to the belay, located at a small left facing corner, 55 m.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up for 20 meters (bolts, 5.9), after traverse to the left for several meters and finally climb diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to the belay directly above a small corner and a roof, 40 m.

Pitch 6: Traverse for a few meters to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to a prominent corner. Climb this corner for 15 meters, after traverse exposed to the right and finally climb a steep flake (bolts, 5.10d) to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 7: Traverse exposed to the right, into a corner system. Now climb straight up this corner-system (bolts, 5.10b) to a narrow ledge directly below an overhang. There traverse to the left (caution rope drag, use long slings) for a few meters, onto a larger ledge. Now climb straight up to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 8: Climb a short wall (bolts, 5.8) to the above large ledge. From there scramble up easy terrain to a prominent corner with a short wall. Climb this wall (bolts 5.10c) to the above sloping ledge. Now move diagonally up to the right, up easy slabs (bolts, 5.6) to the far right-hand arête. 35 m.

Pitch 9: Climb straight up a steep broken buttress to the above large ledge (bolts, 5.8). There move a few steps diagonally up to the right and after climb straight up a wall with horizontal in-cuts (bolts, 5.9) to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 10: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), to the prominent steep arête. Step around this arête and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) to its upper end with the belay, 25 m. (The first ascend climbed the arête completely on the left side, 5.11c).


6 Ninth Symphony ***   "The name is speaking for the quality of this route" 5.11b MIXED 12 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick, Eric Dafou; September 17th and 18th, 2010
First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick; September 22nd, 2010
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 2, 18 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Baldwin) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. From there, aim diagonally up to the right to the base a large corner with the first belay, 15 m.

Pitch 2: (Baldwin) Traverse a few steps to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11b) to a sloping ledge above with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 3: (Baldwin) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.7) and eventually traverse level to the left, to the large Fir tree with the belay chain, 35 m.

Pitch 4: Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, scramble straight up to the 2 anchors above. Use the left-hand (west) anchor.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to a sloping ledge. There traverse a few steps to the left and after keep climbing straight up to the next belay, 32 m.

Pitch 6: Traverse a few steps exposed to the left, after climb straight up past a small roof (bolts, 5.11b). After this roof climb diagonally up to the right and finally follow a corner system straight up to the belay on ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 7: Climb straight up to below a steep slab and a large roof. From there traverse a few meters to the right (bolts, 5.11b) and after climb diagonally up to the right to a small right facing corner (bolts, 5.11a). Now climb straight up to the belay on an exposed ledge, 40 m.

Pitch 8: Traverse a few meters to the right and after climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10d) until you are past a small roof. (Do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, Mystery). Instead climb straight up to the belay, located directly below a prominent overhang, 40 m.

Pitch 9: Traverse 15 meters to the left, to a shallow cave with the next belay (bolts, 5.4).

(Pitch 8 and 9 can be easily climbed in one long pitch).

Pitch 10: Climb a tricky overhang into a right facing corner above (bolts, 5.10b). Follow this corner to the above sloping ledge. Now traverse to the right (bolts), to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 11: Climb a few meters diagonally up to the right, after traverse (bolts, 5.11b) into a right facing corner. Now move straight up this corner to the belay, located in a right facing corner and directly below a small roof, 30 m.

Pitch 12: Climb a double roof (bolts, 5.10b) and after move 7 meters diagonally across a sloping ledge to the base of a large corner system. (Do not traverse to the bolts and roofs at the right, “Mystery”). Instead climb this corner system straight up and shortly below the top of this corner climb diagonally up to the left, across a steep wall (bolts, 5.11a), leading into a deep right facing corner above. Move up this final corner to the top of the route, 35 m. Belay on a tree.

Victor Lake Wall climbing routes
7. Mystery ***** "Amongst Canada’s greatest multi pitch sport routes. A great route to climb, even if you might have to pull on some bolts …! " 5.12c (5.11c A0) SPORT 12 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Alex Geary and Cam Molder, June 23, 2013
First Ascent: Jonas Gessler and Ruedi Beglinger, September 16, 2013 .
Gear: 19 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: (Baldwin) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. From there, aim diagonally up to the right to the base a large corner with the first belay, 15 m.

Pitch 2: (Baldwin) Traverse a few steps to the right and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11b) to a sloping ledge above with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 3: (Baldwin) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.7) and eventually traverse level to the left, to the large Fir tree with the belay chain, 35 m.

Pitch 4: (Mission) Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, scramble straight up to the 2 anchors above. Use the right-hand (east) anchor.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up to below a small roof (bolts, 5.9). From below this roof traverse a few moves to the right and after keep climbing straight up (bolts 5.10a) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6: Climb straight up, following the many bolts (sustained 5.12a or 5.11c and several A0) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 7: Climb straight up to a prominent arête to its upper end (bolts, 5.11a). Step around this arête and after climb straight up a steep slab (bolts, 5.11b) to the corner system above. Climb up this steep corner system (bolts, 5.11b) and eventually step to the left around a steep arête. Keep climbing straight up to a ledge with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 8: Climb straight up to a small roof (bolts, 5.11a). From there climb diagonally up to the right and eventually aim straight up (bolts) to a large ramp. (Do not follow the bolts leading at your left straight up, Ninth Symphony). Instead climb diagonally up to the right, following the ramp for a few meters, eventually climb straight up to a ledge and the large overhang above, belay, 38 m.

Pitch 9: Climb a few meters straight up into the large overhang (bolts) and after traverse exposed above the right-hand overhang for a few meters to the right (bolts, 5.11b). (Do not traverse into the large corner at the far right, The Mission). A few meters prior this corner climb straight up the steep wall to the belay, 25 m.

Pitch 10: Climb a few meters diagonally up to the right, after traverse (bolts, 5.11b) into a right facing corner. Now move straight up to the belay, located in a right facing corner and directly below a small roof, 30 m.

Pitch 11: Climb a double roof (bolts, 5.10b) to a large sloping ledge above. From there, traverse for 15 meters to the right (bolts), into a deep corner with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 12: Traverse to the right, in between the roofs, into a steep corner (bolts, exposed 5.12c or 5.11a 3 bolts A0). Move up this corner to the large roof above. From there traverse exposed to the right, to the belay, 25 m. Enjoy the grand vista.

Pitch 13: Climb straight up easy slabs to the large ledge above (bolt, 5.4) with the final anchor, 20 m.


8. Mission *** "Dean’s labor of love" 5.13a (5.11b A0) MIXED 13p
Established: Dean Flick and many friends
First Ascent: Dean Flick and John Kelly, August 2007 (5.11b 2 bolts A0).
FFA: Jonas Gessler (onsight), September 16, 2013.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 4, few medium size wire nuts, 18 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:

Pitch 1: Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2: Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (5.7), into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.7) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 1 and 2 can be done in one long pitch (60 meters), use at least 4 shoulder size slings.

Pitch 3: Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) to a belay). Skip this belay and climb diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with a prominent chain belay, 32 m.

Pitch 4: Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, climb diagonally up to the right, to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 5: Scramble on easy ground diagonally up to the right, to the far upper corner of the Victor Ledge. Directly left (west) of a prominent large tree climb a short wall (bolts, 5.4) to a small ledge above, belay, 35 m.

Pitch 6: From the belay move 2 meters to the right and after climb a short right facing corner and the following wall (bolts) to a small roof above. From there climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c) and eventually climb straight up. Finally traverse to the left, to the belay at a ledge, 40 m.

Pitch 7: Climb straight up to a corner, leading to the next belay (bolts, 5.9), directly below the large roof, 35 m.

Pitch 8: Climb up to the large roof and after traverse under this roof to its far left side (5.10c). From the left side of the roof climb diagonally up to the left (5.11a), to the belay, 20 m.

Pitch 9: Climb 10 meters straight up a left facing corner (5.10b), after traverse exposed to the left (bolts, 5.11b) and finally climb to a ledge with the belay, 27 m.

Pitch 10: Climb straight up a slab and a right facing corner (bolts, 5.13a or 5.11b 2 bolt A0). After aim diagonally up to the right and eventually move straight up to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 11: (Do not climb the bolts at the steep left-hand wall, Mystery). Instead climb straight up a corner (5.10b) to the sloping ledge above. Now aim diagonally up to the right into a corner (bolts). Climb this corner to the ledge above, belay at the above large ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 12: Walk for a few meters to the right along the large ledge, after climb diagonally up to the right to a roof and the far right-hand arête (bolts, 5.10b). Once at the arête move into a corner and climb straight up to the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 13: Climb for 10 meters diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.10c). After traverse exposed in between roofs to the left (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 25 m. Enjoy the grand vista.

Pitch 14: Climb straight up an easy slab to the large ledge above (bolt, 5.4) with the final anchor, 20 m. (Pitch 13 and 14 can easily be linked into one pitch).


Victor Lake Wall climbing routes
9. Restless Spirits **** "Steep and impressive" 5.12a (5.11b A0) Mixed 7p + 5p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder and Manuela Arnold, June 2011.
First Ascent: Dean Flick and Ruedi Beglinger, June 22, 2011.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.4 to 4, 18 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Approach Route
  1. Baldwin Start to the Goat Ledge, as far as the 5th belay at the Goat Ledge. 5 pitches, 5.11b
  2. An easier and quicker approach route is the Flick Start of the Mission, as far as the 5th belay at the Goat Ledge. 5 pitches 5,7 (the first 4 pitches can be climbed in 2 pitches)
Route:

Pitch 1: From the large ledge climb below a roof diagonally up to the right, to corner. Climb up this corner and after traverse tricky to the right (bolts 5.10a). After this short traverse climb straight up to the slabs above (bolts, 5.10a) and further to the belay at a small ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 2: Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.11b) to an exposed ledge. Traverse along this ledge to its far right-hand end. From there climb straight up (bolts, 5.11a) to a roof above and further to the next belay, 35 m.

Pitch 3: Climb along a prominent long corner (bolts, 5.10a) to where it leads into an overhanging hand and fist crack. Climb this crack (5.10b) and after move straight up, past a final steep crux (bolts, 5.10b) to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 4: Climb the large roof (bolts, 5.12a or 5.11a 2 bolts A0) and the following overhang (bolts, 5.11b), leading to a steep wall above. Now climb straight up this steep wall (bolts, 5.11a) to the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up easy slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the large ledge above, belay, 20 m.

Pitch 6: Climb along a prominent flake to its upper end (5.9). There climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) and eventually traverse to the right (bolts, 5.11a) to a right facing corner. Follow this corner to its upper end and to a roof. Pull this roof (bolts, 5.11a) and after climb straight up to the belay at a narrow ledge, 37 m.

Pitch 7: Climb straight up to below a prominent overhang (bolts, 5.10a). From there traverse below this overhang to the far right (east). Now climb straight up to the final belay (bolts, 5.9), 30 m.


10. The Revelstoke Arête ***** Sustained steep climbing, incredible exposure. 5.11c SPORT 7p + 6
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder and Eric Dafoe, end of October 2014.
First Ascent: Ruedi Beglinger and Eric Dafoe, June 24, 2011.
Gear: 18 draws, 2 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Approach Routes
  1. Lower 6 pitches of “Return of the Osprey”, as far as the Goat Ledge. 6 pitches, 5.11b (recommended)
  2. An easier and quicker approach. Follow the Flick Start of the “Mission”, as far as the Goat Ledge. Then follow the Goat Ledge (fix rope) towards East. Start of “The Revelstoke Arête” 30 meters past (east) the fix rope. 5 pitches plus fix rope traverse, 5.7 (first 4 pitches can be linked in 2 pitches)
Route:

The Revelstoke Arête

Pitch 1: From the starting belay at the Goat Ledge climb on easy terrain diagonally up to the left, into a groove. From there climb straight up, following bolts. Half way up the above steep wall, do not follow the bolts leading up to the left (Return of the Osprey). Instead follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right (5.10c). At the above ledge walk a few meters to the left, to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 2: Climb a strenuous roof to a corner with a small ledge above (bolts, 5.11c). From this small ledge traverse a few steps to the left, around an arête. Now climb straight up (bolts, 5.11c) to the second belay, 28 m.

Pitch 3: Climb the bolt-line 4 meters to the right of the prominent right facing corner. After the third bolt, keep climbing straight up, into a steep corner above. Climb this fun corner to its upper end. There traverse a few steps to the left and after keep climbing straight up (5.11b) to the belay on a sloping ledge and directly below a large roof, 35 m.

Pitch 4: Climb along the roof to its right-hand exit, into a large corner system. From there climb diagonally up to the left, past several smaller roofs, to the prominent and steep arête (bolts, 5.11a). Great exposure at the arête. From the arête climb straight up to the next belay, 35 m.

Pitch 5: Walk straight up some easier terrain to the base of the above steep wall, 25 m. Of the two belays use the left-hand belay. (The right-hand belay at a prominent flake is “Return of the Osprey”).

Pitch 6: Climb the steep bolt-line (5.11d) to the next belay, sustained pitch, 38 m.

Pitch 7: Climb straight up, following more bolts, to the top of The Revelstoke Arête (5.10b), 25 m.


Victor Lake Wall climbing routes
11 Return of the Osprey ****   Simply an excellent route. 5.11c Mixed 12 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick and Cam Molder, October 2010.
FFA: Dean Flick and Ruedi Beglinger, June 28, 2011.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 1, 18 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Return of the Osprey has the lowest start of all routes on the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Start at the base of a steep step and the prominent slabs above, single ringbolt.
Route:

Pitch 1: Climb straight up a short buttress to a large ledge above (bolts). From there climb diagonally up to the right, up a second short buttress, to the base of large slabs. Now climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10d) to the belay, 45 m.

Pitch 2: Climb for 8 meters straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.11b). Eventually climb straight up to the belay below a steep lip, 45 m.

Pitch 3: Climb this lip and the above slabs (bolts, 5.10a) to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 4: Climb straight up a short buttress to a ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right and climb a short corner leading to a wall directly above the below ledge. Now climb straight up (bolts, 5.10a) to the next belay at a ledge, 42 m.

Pitch 5: Climb a short corner to the above slabs. There keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge above. Now traverse to the right, to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6: Climb diagonally up to the right up a short slab (bolts, 5.2) to a ledge with a small overhang. Climb this overhang at the far right-hand side (bolts, 5.5). After move diagonally up to the left and climb a final short step to the above Goat Ledge. Move diagonally up to the left, to the belay, 45 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge, fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony).

Pitch 7: Move a few meters diagonally up to the left and after climb straight up a steep face (bolts, 5.10b). Half way up this wall, do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right (Revelstoke Aréte). Instead follow the bolts leading up to the left. At the upper end of this face, traverse to the left onto a ledge with a large tree. Keep traversing below this large tree and after climb a steep face diagonally up to the left (bolt), to the belay, 40 m.

Pitch 8: Climb for a few steps diagonally up to the left and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11c) to below the large roof above. Now aim to the right, following the large roof and corner system above (bolts, 5.11b), to the next belay, 42 m.

Pitch 9: From the belay climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), eventually climb straight up (bolts, 5.11a) to the next belay, 38 m.

Pitch 10: Climb straight up to the above ledge (bolts, 5.11a). There walk straight up to the base of the upper wall, belay at a prominent flake, 30 m.

Pitch 11: Climb this prominent flake and after keep moving for a few meters diagonally up to the right. From there climb slightly diagonally up to the left to a roof (bolts, 5.10a). Pull this roof (5.10b) and exit onto a ledge with the belay, 40 m.

Pitch 12: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the final belay, 25 m.


12 Trans Canada ****   The charm of the Victor Lake Wall. 5.10c Mixed 11 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick, Eric Dafou; September 19 and 21, 2011.
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger and Dean Flick, September 24, 2011.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 1, 16 draws, 4 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Trans Canada starts 30 meters east of Return of the Osprey, at the lowest part of the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Follow the fix rope past the start of “Return of the Osprey”, for another 30 meters to the start of Trans Canada and Pan-America, single bolt.
Route:

Pitch 1: Climb a shallow buttress (bolts, 5.10b) and after climb diagonally up to the right, across slabs and short walls (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 55 m.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up for several bolts (bolts, 5.10b), after traverse to the right across large slabs for 35 meters, to the belay, 60 m. (If you need to bail, you can rappel straight down from this anchor, 25m / 30m).

Pitch 3: Climb straight up slabs (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge. From there climb a corner to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 4: Climb diagonally up to the right, to the prominent arête. After, climb this great arête to the above slabs (bolts, 5.8). Keep climbing straight up the slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay at a ledge, 38 m.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up a buttress (bolts, 5.10b) to the above ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right, to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.9) to the Goat Ledge above. Continue on straight up to the next belay, 32 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony).

Pitch 7: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 8: Climb straight up a steep right facing corner system (bolts, 5.10c) to the next belay at a small ledge and corner, 36 m.

Pitch 9: Climb diagonally up to the right into the second corner, from this corner move diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to a prominent ledge. There climb straight up large slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 10: (Do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, Pan-American). Instead, follow the bolts leading straight up (5.10b) to the large roofs above. As soon as you reach the base of these large roofs climb diagonally up to the left in between roofs (bolts, 5.7) to the next belay, 45 m.

Pitch 11: From the belay traverse exposed below a small roof to the right, to a small right facing corner (bolts, 5.10c). After this airy traverse climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10a) to a sloping ledge above. From this sloping ledge climb diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9), to the top of Trans Canada, 50 m. Belay on a Fir tree.


Victor Lake Wall climbing routes
13 Pan-America *****   This grand 390 v. m. route belongs to the longest routes in the Revelstoke area. Pleasant surprise on the last pitch, definitely a must to do. 5.11c Mixed 12 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger and Cam Molder; October 2, 2011.
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger and Brian Dafoe, October 8, 2011.
Gear: Cams 0.4 to 4 (double up on 0.75 to 2), 17 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Pan America starts 30 meters to the right (east) of “Return of the Osprey”, at the lowest part of the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Follow the fix rope past the start of “Return of the Osprey”, for another 30 meters to the start of “Pan-America” and “Trans Canada”, single bolt.
Route:

Pitch 1: Climb a shallow buttress (bolts, 5.10b) and after climb diagonally up to the right, across slabs and short walls (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 55 m.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up for several bolts (bolts, 5.10b), after traverse to the right across large slabs for 35 meters, to the belay, 60 m. (If you need to bail, you can rappel straight down from this anchor, 25m / 30m).

Pitch 3: Climb straight up slabs (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge. From there climb a corner (bolt and gear) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 4: Climb diagonally up to the right, to the prominent arête. After, climb this great arête to the above slabs (bolts, 5.8). Keep climbing straight up the slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay at a ledge, 38 m.

Pitch 5: Climb straight up a buttress (bolts, 5.10c) to the above ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right, to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.9) to the Goat Ledge above. Continue on straight up to the next belay, 32 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge, fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony).

Pitch 7: Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 8: Climb straight up a steep right facing corner system (bolts, 5.10c) to the next belay at a small ledge and corner, 36 m.

Pitch 9: Climb diagonally up to the right into the second corner, from this corner move diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to a prominent ledge. There climb straight up large slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 10: (Do not follow the bolts leading straight, Trans Canada). Instead, follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, to a groove. From this groove climb diagonally up to the right to the next belay (bolts, 5.6), 37 m.

Pitch 11: Traverse for a few steps to the right, after climb straight up (bolts, 5.7). From there climb 30 meters to the right (bolts, 5.4), to the next belay, 40 m. The greatest lower grades pitch in Revelstoke.

Pitch 12: Keep traversing to the right (bolts, 5.4) to the next belay in a deep left facing corner, 35 m.

Pitch 13: Climb diagonally up to the right, a short ramp (bolt, 5.7), leading into a prominent deep corner with a fist and hand crack. Climb this corner to its upper end (5.10a). After this corner traverse 2 meters to the right around an arête and climb a short slab to the belay at the ledge above, 35 m.

Pitch 14: This route keeps going on …. Traverse 18 meters to the right, after climb steep straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 25 m.

Pitch 15: Traverse with lots of air below your feet exposed to the left (bolts, 5.10a). After climb steep straight up past a roof (bolts, 5.10c) to the above final wall. Keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the end of this grand route, 35 m. Belay at a Fir tree.